Probably my biggest regret is not having travelled as a younger adult. Pursuing science, I wasn’t aware of the study abroad programs more accessible to humanities students, and once employed after college I either had no time or no money to spend on extensive trips. So my foreign jaunts popped up mostly as serendipitous opportunities: friends doing post-docs abroad, finding an itinerary that whimsically tied into something I was studying (and then having to tweak it). When I approached retirement age, I decided that I needed to do more traveling before I got too old and feeble to enjoy the experience, and I cast my view towards Europe. I’d been to the UK (they speak English, and I even managed to survive hiring a car to drive myself around), and spent a few days in and around Paris. Where next?
My favorite painting in the Met has always been El Greco’s “View of Toledo,” which I visited every time I went into Manhattan. And, hey, I took Spanish in high school, and even a bit in college, and beyond (although I never used it). So in 2011, deciding that it was time to see a bit more of Europe than the UK and a brief jaunt to Paris, I started looking at small group tours to Spain. I found a promising itinerary from Rick Steves that even included a few days in Tangier (a new continent!). It was a terrific experience. I met some fun people, one of whom has remained a good friend and travel partner; the food was fantastic and the wine flowed freely; we explored incredible architecture (old and new) and viewed exquisite art treasures. Here are a few capsule summaries of the tour locales.
Barcelona: The first city on our itinerary, where we concentrated on exploring the Gothic Quarter, including Gaudi’s Sagrada Família and Casa Battlo. Wandering La Rambla to the coast, Susie and I found a fantastic seafood restaurant and stuffed ourselves with shrimp, mussels, and red wine, before enjoying a classical guitar concert in a 12th century church. The fun didn’t stop as we boarded the AVE train to Madrid, laden with food and way too much wine purchased by our intrepid guide Helen to make sure we didn’t starve during the 3-hour trip.
Segovia: Lodging in a small hotel in the center of the old town, we enjoyed strolling around the beautifully lit up to view the cathedral and the Roman-era aqueduct after a sumptuous (and boozy) roast suckling pig dinner.
Madrid: Our hotel on the Puerto del Sol was central to excursions to the Escorial, the Prado museum with its fabulous collection of art masterpieces, colorful shops selling spices, hot chocolate as thick as pudding, and (of course) jamon. We visited a hookah bar, and made a special trip to the Reina Sofia to see Picasso’s “Guernica,” which totally took my breath away.
Toledo: Yes, it really does look like the El Greco painting! And we saw lots more art, by El Greco and other Spanish masters, in the overwhelmingly decorated cathedral and other historic buildings.
La Mancha: We bought locally grown saffron and got a tour of one of the famous windmills, with Helen meeting us at the bottom of the stairs with wild boar pate and some local liqueur. It was eleven am, but not too early for boozy snacks!
Granada: The evening before touring the exquisite Alhambra, we enjoyed dinner on Albayzin hill overlooking the palace. Strolling through the many gardens, terraces, and rooms of this treasure of Moorish architecture was a pleasure to all the senses.
Ronda and Tarifa: After a quick visit to one of the oldest bullrings in Spain, we enjoyed an al fresco seafood dinner in Tarifa before boarding a ferry across the Mediterranean Sea to Morocco.
Tangier: Disembarking from the ferry we were met by Aziz, who is evidently the most famous person in Tangier. Our lodging was a cozy B & B, La Tangerina, inside the Kasbah. We had a rooftop breakfast patio and could even have wine sent up the dumbwaiter as we lounged and enjoyed the view. It was so delightful we didn’t want to leave, and arranged to have dinner at home for our second evening meal, which did not disappoint. After a tour of the city, Aziz took Susie rug shopping, and I tagged along. We were feted with tea and a mind-boggling display of gorgeous Moroccan carpets. Susie bought rugs. I enjoyed watching Susie buy rugs.
Spain’s Puertas Blancas: Southern Spain offers a variety of activities, sites, and experiences, from a tasting lunch at a sherry bodega, to visiting an Andalusian horse farm, to relaxing with a picnic on the beach. The views from the Hotel El Convento (yes, a converted convent), our home in Arcos de la Frontera, were spectacular.
Seville: The final city on our tour, Seville is both atmospheric and flamboyant. Our hotel was just outside the gates of the Barrio Santa Cruz, a maze of shops, tapas bars, Spain’s oldest Gothic cathedral, and more. We attended a flamenco performance, sampled the Turkish bath, and explored the Alcazar. Our farewell dinner was prepared by chefs from the culinary academy, and topped with cava and a carriage ride through the city. Adiós y gracias, España!